The New Era of Femininity with YSL SS26

This spring 2026, Saint Laurent is fully in tune with the times with a collection that celebrates the current season. A look back at this memorable show, presented on September 29, 2025, in the iconic setting of the Trocadéro Fountain, facing a shimmering Eiffel Tower. A highlight of Paris Fashion Week, which today resonates as a true ode to the beautiful days.

More than ever, Anthony Vaccarello is committed to blurring the traditional markers of femininity. The women he showcases surprise, evolve, and reinvent themselves through the silhouettes. Their style changes, nuances, as evidenced by this spring-summer 2026 collection from Saint Laurent, perfectly in tune with the current season.

On the occasion of Paris Fashion Week, Anthony Vaccarello unveiled the spring-summer 2026 women's collection from Saint Laurent, confidently affirming a strong and now emblematic vision of the house. Presented outdoors, under a starry sky with the Eiffel Tower in the background, the show was set in a nearly surreal Parisian decor. A staging that marks a new direction, blending refined heritage and a resolutely contemporary approach.

The creator designs a refined wardrobe, but charged with sensuality, where each piece subtly highlights the lines of the body. Among the essentials: jackets with impeccable cuts and marked shoulders, asymmetrical dresses, oversized leather bombers, as well as a series of particularly daring transparency games, translating a mastered elegance.

With this collection, Anthony Vaccarello offers a modern interpretation of chic, where simplicity rhymes with character, offering a true lesson in style that is both bold and sophisticated.

The fashion show established itself as a true ode to mastered elegance. Between minimalist suits, draped dresses with flowing lines, and revisited trench coats, Vaccarello's creations translate a deep conviction: that of femininity guided by inner strength and a confident way of dressing with intention.

This direction stands as a strong and assumed stance, confirming that Saint Laurent remains faithful to its heritage while fully embracing its era. More than ever, Anthony Vaccarello enjoys redefining the contours of femininity. The silhouettes he imagines escape expectations, evolving and transforming throughout the show, like this Spring-Summer 2026 collection, where each look reveals a new facet.

For this Spring-Summer 2026 collection, this vision is tinged with delicate romanticism, in a setting transformed into a true garden of white flowers, punctuated with hydrangeas. An atmosphere that evokes the striking memory of Laetitia Casta, appearing in a fresh rose bikini during the Spring-Summer 1999 haute couture show.

Even if the French actress was not present that night, the show nonetheless remained imbued with a particular brilliance, carried by an assembly of emblematic figures who came to celebrate the Saint Laurent universe. Between timeless icons and contemporary faces, this prestigious audience extended the spirit of the show: a meeting between heritage and modernity, where each presence seemed to dialogue with the aesthetic imagined by Vaccarello.

Each Saint Laurent collection testifies to Anthony Vaccarello's uncompromising ambition. The Belgian designer plays with boldness and precision, focusing his energy on a limited number of styles while avoiding redundancy or banality — a demonstration of his keen sense of detail and innovation. For the Spring-Summer 2026 show, he unfolds his vision around three major silhouettes, distinct but connected by the same energy.

A bold leather. After inspiring the men's Fall-Winter 2025 collection, Robert Mapplethorpe makes another appearance in the women's collection. While in 1983 the controversial American photographer conducted a campaign for the house, his stylistic and iconographic references are strongly present here. The show opens with women clad in leather armor with 80's lines. Sometimes, the leather jacket gives way to white blouses with shoulder pads, whose lavallieres recall the bows of ball gowns. The look is powerful, the stride conquering, in total contrast with the poetry of the floral decor.

The Rive Gauche silhouette returns to the forefront. Next come the trench coats and dresses in light fabrics with bright colors, a nod to the Rive Gauche line launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966 to democratize ready-to-wear. This collection, manufactured in series, simplified clothing and promoted the emancipation of women.

Grandiose dresses for a bold silhouette Finally, the show concludes with voluminous, almost princely dresses, whose technical fabric modernizes a silhouette that might seem classic. Vaccarello here evokes the Duchess of Guermantes by Marcel Proust or the famous Madame X by John Singer Sargent (1883-1884), but it is the image of Marie-Antoinette that stands out: the iconic queen, celebrated at the Victoria & Albert Museum, embodying a dramatic and timeless heroine. These dresses seem straight out of an anachronistic Sofia Coppola film. To break any rigidity and accentuate the energy, the models walk the runway at a brisk pace, letting the hems of their dresses float with each step, blending majesty and contemporary movement.

In this sumptuous setting, Saint Laurent opened Paris Fashion Week with a show divided into three tableaux, each illustrating the singular vision Anthony Vaccarello has of plural femininity.

The first act imposed a striking and structured silhouette: dark leather, marked shoulders, pencil skirts, and exaggerated lavallieres. The influence of the 1980s is felt, blending a sensual leather imagination with an underground spirit, while maintaining the icy and sophisticated elegance inherent to the house.

The second tableau offered an airy and luminous contrast. Vaccarello revisited the iconic Rive Gauche silhouette through trench coats and parachute dresses, in organic and vibrant shades — terracotta, cyan, sand, and bright orange. The lightness of the perfectly crafted technical fabrics brought a breath of modernity and new fluidity, giving the silhouettes an almost ethereal presence.

Finally, the show concluded with a spectacular grand finale: monumental dresses, evoking both the Duchess of Guermantes and the mysterious Madame X. The models walked the runway like heroines from a novel, draped in majestic volumes whose floating hems accompanied each of their steps. The decor and staging evoked a true fashion opera, where the theater and timeless glamour of Saint Laurent blended powerfully.

Through these three tableaux, Vaccarello reaffirmed his vision: the Saint Laurent woman is never monolithic. She is multiple, elusive, and always endowed with that troubling magnetism that makes her unforgettable. At certain moments, an imposing heart-shaped jewel captured attention, a nod to the "Heart of Saint Laurent," a talisman imagined by the house's founder in 1962 for his very first show and then worn by his great friend Victoire.

On Monday, September 29, 2025, the Spring-Summer 2026 Fashion Week opened with its first major event: the Saint Laurent show. Presented in front of the Eiffel Tower, it gathered a host of celebrities who immediately set social media ablaze. The first guest to take the stage, Carla Bruni posed in a long yellow dress with thin straps and delicate ruffles, a brown faux fur coat, and black vinyl boots. A very "mob wife" look that echoed Madonna, in a leather perfecto and a transparent skirt with a black lace train. The star posed alongside her daughter Lourdes Leon, who wore a tight-fitting little black dress. Not to forget Virginie Efira who made a notable appearance in a short velvet coat dress and black leather boots, Kate Moss who posed in a V-neck blazer dress, and Catherine Deneuve, who greeted the crowd in a black trench and matching pants.

The show opens with women in 80s-style leather armor. The look is powerful and contrasts with the floral decor in which the models stroll. Next appear the Rive Gauche silhouettes, in trench coats and dresses made of parachute fabrics in vibrant colors. A nod to the line launched by Yves Saint Laurent in 1966, which helped democratize ready-to-wear fashion. The third part of the show unveils voluminous Victorian dresses, with balloon sleeves, dramatic collars, and cascading ruffles. A very Marie-Antoinette look, currently celebrated in London at the Victoria & Albert Museum.